Mission Day: Final Thoughts

I have now been home for about a week.  I have done much reflection on the past month; the incredible month I spent in Bermuda as a GUE diver volunteering my time for Project Baseline.  My body is healing from all the bumps and bruises.  I am catching up on some well needed rest.  As I now (rested) reflect upon the adventure my mind has become more energetic, enthusiastic and clear regarding my time in the Bermuda Triangle.

I have truly had the experience and opportunity of a lifetime toiling closely with Project Baseline, the Baseline Explorer and GlobalSubDive achieving success in this mission.  I expect that I will be on many future expeditions as time marches on.  However, let me be very clear; I am a "volunteer".  I receive no compensation.  I just spent 26 days contributing my time, knowledge, skill-sets and at times, frustration, aggravation and humor toward the successful outcome of this mission.   Not a second of it do I regret.  It has made me a better Diving Safety Officer for GUE and the Baseline Explorer and an all-around diver.  My involvement helped to make our contribution as a scientifically focused dive team highly beneficial and productive; the dive team provided over 80 percent of the science samples presented to the onboard scientists, completed all the research goals for 4 of the 5 sites chosen for this Mission and placed the only team onto the Challenger Bank (the 5th planned site).  Tremendous effort and dedication was expended by myself and all my GUE dive team mates, at our personal pleasure (but also at our personal risk), but executed consistently and professionally under incredible circumstances. 

I think the eminent circumstance we had to manage was that our scientific expectation differed from the daily delivery and execution of science from those managing the main mission objective; the dive team was a separate entity reporting to the main mission overall.  The Mission overall, had to balance science and public relations.  Unfortunately, at times, science got put on the back burner. To us, volunteers dedicated to demonstrating a professional, competent and responsible resolve toward the science, this was vexing; our interpretation of this mission became greater than the reality of the Mission itself.

Other circumstances we had to manage were rushed pre-mission planning, organization and coordination; inefficient specialty equipment provided for accomplishing the main scientific tasks we were asked to complete underwater; time pressures impacting adequate coordination and communication with the incredible scientific staff assembled aboard the Baseline Explorer; excess sub pilot training dives; minimal sub time for scientists in lieu of sub rides for promotion.  Finally, a general lack of appreciation for the value our dive team brought to the table; remember, we completed 4 of 5 sites and brought up 80 percent of the science retrieved. 

Fortuitously, we as a GUE divers, trained specifically for deep and lengthy research diving, under the flag of "Project Baseline", together sharing a “commitment to excellence”, were motivated to see our abilities and robust collection of diving assets utilized positively and efficiently in support of the Bermuda mission.  So uncharacteristic circumstances be damned!   We endeavored each day to complete our work with smiles on our faces, confidence in our talents and our value, and knew that at the end of the day our reward would be in the recognition of our efforts by the scientists onboard, appreciating our contributions to high quality research by demonstrating our value through our actions (not our words) and demonstrating the value Project Baseline and we GUE Divers have in making missions like this a success; regardless!  

One great privilege for me on this expedition was to dive with so many incredible, humble, friendly, dedicated and simply "pleasures to be associated with", GUE Divers.  I want to thank them all for a great adventure and I want you to meet them...

Dr. Todd Kincaid

Director, Project Baseline 
Head of Diving Operations, Baseline Explorer
Nationality: USA

GUE JJ CCR Diver and Hyperbaric Chamber Certified

Earned his Ph.D. in Geohydrology and is an avid underwater explorer; pushing the limits of expedition, cave and technical diving. Helped establish the non-profit organization Global Underwater Explorers (1999).  Focusing now upon Project Baseline, GUE’s main conservation initiative as he piloted our dive team with incredible professional dedication and resolve.

Meredith Tanguay

Dive Safety Officer (DSO), Baseline Explorer

Nationality: USA

GUE Instructor and Hyperbaric Chamber Certified

A dynamic GUE Instructor, founder of Wet Rocks Diving (HI & FL) and a skilled DSO.  Actively participating in dry and wet cave exploration stateside, is focused upon detail and was an incredible liaison between the science and dive teams. Constantly demonstrating an unwavering commitment to safety and excellence,  she skillfully combined her passion for underwater exploration with a penchant for science.

JP Bresser

Professional Underwater Photographer and Videographer
Nationality: Netherlands 
GUE Instructor Trainer/Examiner

An editor, photographer, and filmmaker, JP has traveled to exciting dive locations all over the world. Incredibly respected for his underwater photography and film work.  Sought after to film cave and deep wreck exploration Globally.  When he is not sharing his knowledge as a top GUE Educator, you will find him in remote and hard to reach locations, camera in hand. JP spent 4 days with the Bermuda mission and captured incredible action utilizing his mad imagery skills!

Graham Blackmore

GUE Professional Educator and Expedition Diver

Nationality: United Kingdom
GUE Instructor Trainer

Graham holds advanced degrees in marine and freshwater biology and marine ecology. A technical diver for over 10 years; has logged over 2,500 dives worldwide.  A valued team diver on Project Baseline's exploration of Italian wrecks in 2014 he stepped into the Bermuda Mission with tremendous wisdom and experience that he shared with all.

Susan Bird

GUE Diver and Project Baseline Volunteer
Nationality: USA
GUE Instructor Emerita

With a BA from Stanford, a Clinical Hypnotherapist and Alternative Therapist Sue added the vital element of "calm" to the Bermuda mission. Once President of the Bay Area Underwater Explorers (Monterey, CA) and was a core member of the NatGeo Hoyo Negro Team - the archaeological site in the Yucatan Peninsula that introduced the world to Naia. She presently leads trips to destinations around the world to facilitate in-water encounters with wild cetaceans.

Su Eun Kim

GUE Diver and Project Baseline Volunteer
Nationality: South Korea
GUE JJ CCR Diver

An experienced and mission-oriented diver, Su Eun joined Project Baseline aboard Baseline Explorer for the December 2015 exploration of Florida wrecks. The epitome of the phrase, "dynamite comes in small packages", as her drive to support the Bermuda Mission was inspiring and motivating.  Handling hundreds of pounds of gear she also provided some incredible underwater imagery.

Kevin Dow

GUE Diver and Project Baseline Volunteer
Nationality: USA
GUE JJ CCR Diver

 Kevin works as a Senior Technical Support executive for a large international construction firm.   He splits his dive time between the Monterey coast in California and caves in Florida, Mexico, and Vancouver.  A solid expedition research diver, Kevin supported the entire Bermuda Mission topside in a manner "above and beyond"!  100% Mission focused his skills and insight were welcome and vital to the success we experienced in Bermuda.

Kyungsoo Kim

GUE Diver and Project Baseline Volunteer
Nationality: South Korea
GUE JJ CCR Diver

Kyungsoo holds a degree in engineering from Dong-A University and is the owner of Dive Academy Songdo and first joined Project Baseline aboard Baseline Explorer for the December 2015 exploration of Florida wrecks. Diving since 2001 he has logged over 3,000 dives.  His strength above and below along with his calm, relaxed and friendly attitude provided tremendous value in accomplishing our mission goals. 

And me...

Martin McClellan

Dive Safety Officer (DSO), Baseline Explorer
Nationality: USA
GUE Diver and Project Baseline Volunteer
Hyperbaric Chamber Certified
Author of this Blog

I have been diving since 1980 with a long-term goal of "philosophically, professionally and responsibly" representing the exploratory diving community. In 1999, I led a diving team to over 400’ more than ten times to document the SS Tahoe in Lake Tahoe, Nevada.  I became involved in Project Baseline in 2009 as Project Manager of Lake Tahoe, USA. 

I absolutely love being underwater.  I have been blessed with the opportunity and honor to be involved in a "professional hobby" that allows me to interact with such great people as listed above; wonderful friends, new and old, that share my integrity and commitment to excellence.  

Thank you all; dive mates, family, friends and Blog followers.  Thank you for showing me that my/our participation with Project Baseline's Mission to Bermuda, in every way, has deepened and strengthened Project Baseline's relationship and global reputation; especially now among the leaders in the scientific community.

Finally, thank you for your friendship, interest and support as it has clarified the importance of my dedication to continue my involvement in these kinds of endeavors.  I am inspired to seek out projects with those that truly have interest in making our world a better environment for our future generations.  

Saying goodbye to Bermuda from Reno, Nevada, I wish you the best in your endeavors and adventures.  Be curious, safe and have a great time!

Martin McClellan

Mission Day: Nineteen, Twenty, Twenty -One, Two and Three

My time here on the Island of Bermuda is coming to an end.  My diving has ended 10 August.  Today was a high wind day so Meredith, Kyungsoo and Su Eun would not be able to dive so if weather is good tomorrow, which would have been my last dive day, they would still be the dive team.  Not to worry, I am completely wiped out.  I have done 11 dives (7 to 300 feet, 2 to 200 feet and 2 to shallow depths for what we call Admin dives).  I have spent a grand total of 17 hours on the bottom during those dives and 53 hours of decompression and up to our first bad weather day, Todd and I completed 16 straight Mission Days, either underwater or supporting our other team members from aboard the Fountain at the surface.

Me filming the installation of the Science Station
Photo: Graham Blackmore (Thanks my friend)
Mission Day 11, 28 July

I would like to share my thoughts really quick about the training agency I dive with, Global Underwater Explorers (GUE); the “advanced diver/technical diver” certification agency that Todd (my dive buddy and Science Director of GUE, began in 1999.  The philosophy that we adhere is to a high level of fundamental dive skill, standardization of equipment – advanced skill sets – dive communications and protocols allowing me to do my first dive with a new buddy, Kyungsoo Kim, to 300 feet for 5 hours.  He speaks very little English, I speak NO Korean, yet underwater, we speak the same language and can execute a highly technical rebreather dive, accomplish a successful science mission and complete four hours of decompression floating in “blue water”.  I am proud to be a GUE diver. 

Establish a "SVS transect" start point.

During our science missions we have collected video data and physical data; stereo video transects, being a primary objective but also gathering H2O, algae, corals and rock specimens.  I have not done a very good job of explaining the Stereo Video Transects (SVS); how we do it, how we set it up and what we provide the scientists upon completion of a transect series. 

The 50meter metric tape measure
attached to the 10 meter line

An SVS transect starts by selecting a starting point on the bottom (benthos) and laying down a 10 meter / 33-foot line.  At the end of this line we attach a 50-meter fiberglass tape measure.  The reason for the 10-meter gap is because this SVS video is trying to capture “fish density” in their natural habitat and if we were to start filming right away, all our activity (tying in line, setting up SVS camera system, synchronizing the cameras, etc.) would startle the fish.  So the scientists have us set-up, swim the 10 meters and then begin filming the 50-meter SVS video transect while the other diver lays out the tape measure “following behind” the camera diver.  Now simply swimming along, quiet with our rebreathers, just like another fish in the ocean, the cameras pointing forward capture an undisturbed fish video.  Once we get to the end of the first 50 meter SVS video, the diver managing the tape measure lets out a series of “Whoop, Whoop, Whoop” which the camera operator can hear and the first transect ends.  At this point we then attach another 10-meter line, swim it, attach another 50-meter tape measure while following the camera person until we get to the end of the second tape.  At this point, the fish diversity SVS transect is complete and we are 120 meters away from our starting point.   

What the camera sees during the "benthic" video

At this point there are 2 videos that we provide and the scientists will take those two videos, process them with computer software and create a high quality 3D video allowing them to study and count the fish species we have captured on the SVS video cameras. 



How we record depth and time at the beginning of
 each transect phase... my rebreather controller.

Now, if you think about it, we are 120 meters / 400 feet away from our starting point.  Now what?  A benthic (bottom) study begins.  The camera operator points the cameras down and video tapes the bottom of the seabed from a 30 centimeter / 1-foot distance.  This whole process takes about 30 minutes and we do this process twice at each depth; 90m/300f, 60m/200f, 30m/100f and 15m/45f.

To conclude my posts from here in Bermuda, what transpired on Mission Day’s 19-20-21-22 & 23?  I will be brief... 5 August (MD19), we went back out to Tiger, Todd, Kyungsoo and I, did SVS transects at 90m/300f, 30m/100ft and 15m/45f. collected 25 H2O samples along with coral and algae.  We went as deep as 311 feet / 92 meters, were on the bottom at that depth for 40 minutes and spent 271 minutes in decompression (ascent time to the surface).


6 August (MD20), we had a day off due to BEX and Fountain maintenance, 7 August (MD21), Todd, and I supported Meredith, Kyungsoo and Su Eun from the newly serviced Fountain while they dove Tiger accomplishing much the same objectives as we did on the 5^th. On 8 August (MD22), another down day due to refueling and filling the fresh water tanks aboard the BEx so we took the morning to organize dive gear and then in the afternoon I took a “walk-a-bout” from St. George to our accommodations at the Granaway BnB (see supplemental post – not sure when…come back for sure to read it) and finally, 9  August (MD23) we took the Fountain (solo – no BEX with us) 12 miles off the south end of the island to Challenger Bank and did a 97m/320f dive for 45 minutes with a total decompression time of 231 minutes.

As a dive team, we completed three sites (North Northeast, Spittal, Tiger) were one dive short of completing the Argus Bank and were the only team to put divers down on the Challenger Bank where we were 2 dives short of completion; total sites – 3.5!  I am very proud of what we have done here, very honored to have had this opportunity and dive with 7 outstanding GUE divers and my friends, ready to come home. 

Me and my "Tilley" saying, "Goodbye...
 from the Bermuda Triangle!

I will do a follow-up/Mission summary post by the end of the month but for now, so long from Bermuda and thanks for following along.  It was my pleasure sharing this with you all. 

Mission Day: Sixteen, Seventeen and Eighteen

Each day starts at 6am.  Todd and I prepare the Fountain at the Granaway dock for morning pick-ups at the Greenback BnB and the Princess Hotel marina in Hamilton.  Then off through Hamilton Harbor, out past the cruise ship docks and north east up along the shoreline into St. George Harbor where the BEx is anchored for the evenings; a 1-hour transit.  8am we hop onto the BEx where we get breakfast, organize our equipment and prepare for a diver splash around 9:30a to 10am; remember, 5-6 hours underwater puts us up between 3p and 4p so we need to get an early start.  Once we exit the water from our dive and climb back on the Fountain, we motor back to harbor to transfer all our equipment and divers back onto the BEx which usually is back in St. George Harbor; we have done open ocean transfers but it is much more chaotic as 2 foot seas make it too dangerous to exit directly onto the BEx swim platform (seas are usually 3-5 feet, sometimes 6 and that is the breaking point for any operations).  Once the Fountain is unloaded from all the dive gear, we then spend until dinner cleaning and prepping gear for the next day.  Dinner over, we brief for the next day’s diving and then load up the evening pick-ups, transfer them back to Hamilton and Greenback and on to our cottage at Granaway where we clean the Fountain, put her on a mooring, swim or kayak to shore and walk up to our room; earliest we have made it back has been 8pm but average is 9am and latest was 10:30am!  We have now been doing this (6 August) for 16 days straight.  I am on dive 10, with 8 of them being 300 feet/90 meters and every dive has been impressive and fun…once underwater!

The Baseline Explorer - 150 feet

“What’s your motivation”? has been a common question that I am asked by the media on board.  There are several motivations but for me, number one, is the opportunity to rebreather dive on deep ocean walls and execute incredible underwater mission plans with the absolute best divers in the world.  Secondarily, providing the science samples for the great scientists that are on this ship and experiencing their appreciation and gratitude; our work is allowing them to work and be productive full time.  As a team we are very proud of our work.  I have included a couple images of some of the research being done aboard the BEx as a result of our dive missions; keep reading. 

Before I continue, I have to thank the incredible crews aboard the BEX.  Ships crew -  Captains Jeremy and Larry supported by deckhand Austin; sub crew – Shane, Randy, Robert, Kenny, Dave and TC; and I cannot forget our chefs, Scott and Greg.  These named individuals are working 12-14 hour days and without them, none of this would be possible.  Thanks!

So let’s talk about the actual “science” being conducted aboard the ship during this mission.  Video transects as I have explained in previous posts (fish diversity and bottom – benthic  - diversity) where the scientists can take our images, process them via computer and create a 3D video of high quality to study these elements of the Bermuda Rise.  Water, very in depth water sampling both on the ship and preserved in the refrigeration unit for transport back to Stanford where the complete analysis of these water samples will be conducted.  Genetic comparisons of deep water and shallow water corals; and cross comparisons with other corals globally. Algae is being documented for type and laid out on paper (see images) and pressed for visual representation and cataloguing as well as DNA analysis to see where It may have come from in looking at a global database or… whether it is a new species.  Finally, water environmental DNA analysis that can tell what “things” have been in the water; animals, plants, algae’s, micro-organisms, etc.  It is really cool.  There are two laboratories set-up on board and we are keeping the scientists very busy and bringing back some vitally needed samples.  What this will do is establish a 2016 baseline of data that can now be the analysis foundation for studies on into the future.  Those studies will determine whether or not conditions are improving or worsening.  I am proud to part of what is going on and what we are building with Project Baseline!

An actual algae sample pressed onto paper, catalogued and DNA tested

 


Another pressed algae image - merging of art and science



Coral specimen DNA analysis chart

How many corals can you identify?

So what has been happening since my last post?  Well:

-> 2 August, Dredger King George Circus Show where no science was done but the submarines did 16 dives and we as divers did our transects and demonstrated our underwater abilities, interacted with the subs and put on a dog and pony show for VIP’s.  70 feet on the wrecksite of the Dredger King George!  What a waste of a day.  Oh well, the VIP’s sure enjoyed the day. 

Pilot Kelvin (RT) and passenger: I took this
 image while interacting the submersible Nomad

-> 3 August, we returned to Spittal and did another 2-mile dive from 300 feet / 90 meters into 20 feet / 6 meters.  This was Sue’s last day with us.  What an honor it was to dive with her again.  A highly skilled underwater research diver and a joy to have as my surface support buddy whilst the Red team was under.  We did 6 transects, collected 25 water samples, bagged 3 1-gallon Ziploc bags with algae and got about 20 pounds of coral samples.  339 feet / 104 meters (still have not reached GB 110) for 302 minutes…yep, 5 hours underwater.




A selfie of Sue and myself working the back
deck...hardhats and closed shoes required 

-> 4 August, we supported the newly modified Red Team at the site North North East.  Why “newly modified”?  Because with Kevin and Graham gone, two new GUE divers from South Korea, Kyungsoo Kim (he likes to be called Jerry) and Su Eun Kim (Sue) streamed smoothly in to the 2 vacated positions and conducted 300 feet / 90 meter transects and collected several water samples. 

That is it for this post.  I will be back in about 3 days time.  Weather is looking bad tomorrow, 7 August and worse for 8 August, but we will see if it keeps us divers on the surface!  Thanks for tuning in...

Mission Day: Thirteen, Fourteen and Fifteen

Let me start with some statistics; 6 volunteer divers have been here now for 15 days working for an average of 14 hours per day, that is 1260 person hours and we still have 12 days to go; conducted 11 dive days and an accumulated 130-140 hours of total underwater time; worked as deep as 360 feet / 110 meters (GB) and as shallow as 20 feet / 6 meters; scootered underwater a distance of just shy of 100 miles (about 96 by my calculations).  Finally, we have collected about 80% of the science (versus the submersibles).  I would say that is really impressive and truthfully, could only be done by GUE trained and experienced divers.  The diving we are doing is just way outside the norm.  What is to me even more impressive, are the caliber of dives we are safely executing and the research we are providing, considering the pressure we are under to keep to schedules that we do not dictate. 



My special hideout - the commercial freezer
that stores and preserves the science samples

30 July, was a weather break day.  Winds out of the south east just made it too difficult for the big ship, BEx, to get out of harbor and launch subs.  However, the divers went!  One of the reasons was that we had a professional underwater photographer, also a GUE Professional, JP Bresser (from Holland) arrived to spend 4 days capturing images of a much higher quality.  Today would have been a dive day for me but I was more valuable operating the Fountain (dive support boat) so that the rest of the team could do some science gathering dives allowing JP to film; we were at the site North by North East.  The dives were not long, about 100 minutes but operating the boat in 4-6 foot chop, now that was a challenge.  I walked like a drunken sailor when I hit land.  Now we did not waste our dives as we continued to collect SVS fish transects and benthic transects along with the collection of water, corals and algae. 



A JP photo:  300ft/90mt - Todd, Kevin and Graham

31 July, the red team was up.  My normal day to pilot the Fountain however, this makes 3 days in a row; rough on the ankles as you are on your feet for 7 hours straight.  The challenge today may be having to manage 2 teams at the surface.  Our plan was to have all 5 divers meet up as one team but we really had an awesome concept for today; as it turned out, it was fortuitous that I operated the Fountain.

Today’s dive began last night when there were 4 GUE divers sitting together in a room – a scary prospect for the unexperienced.  Todd suggested that let 2 submarines enter and go down to 1000 feet / 300 meters.  Have a dive-team follow them down with scooters and cameras to film the subs until a depth of 300 feet / 90 meters.  Let the submarines film the divers, filming the divers filming the submarines; basically we have a second cameraperson in the sub filming team.  film the divers film the submarines!!!  Then to make it even better, have a second team go down before the submarines enter, establish the 300 feet / 90 meters transect and then have that team from above meet up at depth with them to film and document the transect science being done at 300 feet / 90 meters.



A JP Bresser image of Graham and Nemo: This EPIC image is what made
Mission Day 14 worth the extra effort and energy put out by all!

As one of the camera operators JP Bresser said, “Forget for a minute all the logistics, the timing, the ripping currents, all the people involved, the dynamics of open ocean diving, the time management, the decompression planning, the boat support on the surface and all the equipment involved and not malfunctioning...... Can we make it work”?  Well, I personally felt pretty comfortable with the plan as the dive support boat pilot but never far from my mind was what would we do if those teams became separated and I had to track 2 surface buoys; we will get to that potentiality when and if it arises. 

So it worked!!!  And as JP further commented, “Only a team of divers from Global Underwater Explorers (GUE) can pull off a stunt like this, blue and red teams assimilated, and EPIC footage was shot!” but…the teams did become separated and Sue and I worked our butts off at the surface on the dive support boat keeping track of the two surface markers; one team staying stationary and the other, scootering away at about 1.5 miles per hour.  It was crazy!  But we handled it, only losing the deep dive team’s tow-fish briefly while exiting the camera team that was on a shorter total run time.  Once JP and Meredith were out, we got an assist from Captain Larry aboard the BEx and were reunited at the surface with divers Kevin, Graham and Todd below.  An exciting day.  I am looking forward to tomorrow…I get to dive!



Nemo and Nomad demonstrating their incredible ability as a scientific resource for
 Project Baseline

1 August, the birthday of my wife Kim.  First I want to shout out a huge thank you for her and the support she provides me in expeditions like this.  She has been on my “dive” side for over 25 years and without her, I would not be here.   THANKS MY LOVE!

Today we might see tiger sharks.  The dive site for Todd, Sue and I would be “Tiger”.  A pinnacle about 6 miles of the southwest end of the island.  Our goal was to complete four 200 foot / 60 meter SVS transects and two benthic transects, collect water samples at depth and every 70 foot / 20 meter depth increments on the way up, collect rock samples and then scout for the 50 foot / 15 meter top of the pinnacle. 

The frustration for us today was sub operations wasn’t optimal as winds were coming up and the trip back to a calm harbor would take about 2-3 hours so….after entering, which I think was delayed by weather decisions effecting sub ops, we were told that we had to be back on BEx by 3:30pm for logistical reasons.  So our dive objectives would have to be done quickly and efficiently.  We entered the water and went to work.



Tiger Reef looking up from 215ft/ 63m - Photo by me



Tiger was an incredible dive.  We hit the bottom at about 200 feet/ 60 meters and were on another incredible wall where behind us was tens of thousands of feet of water below.  We accomplished all of our objectives, did a 4 hour dive after spending 65 minutes at depth.  This pinnacle was incredible and lush with corals and life, really good visibility allowing us the opportunity to scooter for almost 2 miles and locating the shallow point of Tiger! 

I want to thank JP Bresser for his incredible talent and his photos enhancing my blog and I will end by saying that I have never worked so intensely for such an incredible outcome.  Proud to be here and have 12 days left!  I will report again in a couple of days.

*************************

Imagine floating in the ocean, eye-balling a 3 foot long orange float, below that are the divers you are supporting and protecting from above - each support session lasts about 6 hours.  Here is a little photo essay of my three days operating the dive support boat, and what I saw, from the Fountain:

Sometimes you are close and can see the "mothership" Baseline Explorer

At times during the day, they are barely visible!

Then again, at times...they are close!

...and sometimes, they are no where to be seen as they dip down
below the waves and intensify your heartbeat!

This is what we do as surface support aboard the Fountain but more interestingly, what we see for 6 hours.  It is a damm big ocean!